Silicones in hair care – all you need to know

Silicones in hair products

Silicones have been used in personal care products since the 1950s. Initially limited to skin care products, silicone’s use has spread into hair care products and treatments. They are widely recognised for their lubricating properties and characteristically soft smooth feel they help create. Are they safe to use? And why beauty community have recently seen a backlash on silicones?

While silicones that made it to your product shelf are considered safe to use, not all silicones have been created equal. Long-term effects of usage, including build up and hair brittleness have been gaining more and more prominence recently.

Watch the video below to get an overview or continue reading the article:

In response, to the issues that long-term usage of silicones in hair care, beauty industry introduced “water soluble silicones” to address negative effects of non-soluble silicones while also keeping its benefits – especially to those of us with chemically-treated and / or curly hair. In hair care, cosmetic manufacturers add silicones to shampoos, conditioners, and styling products to help create the slip needed to detangle and give hair a silky shine and manageability. Let’s take a look at how silicones types differ.

Non-soluble silicones in hair care

These are silicones that you cannot remove or penetrate with water, which can inadvertently damage the hair. This happens by silicones “sticking” to the hair surface creating a plastic-like film, preventing strands to absorb water, air and nutrients. Without regular usage of clarifying shampoo, hair becomes dry and brittle – which leads to damage and breakage. With a caveat, these types of silicones have an advantage when protecting hair against high heat styling, being a lot more efficient in this task than most natural oils.

If you do find yourself using products with non-soluble silicones or only just came about to learning about its culprits, you can remove these silicones from the hair shaft by washing with clarifying shampoos otherwise known, as shampoos with surfactants. These types of shampoos, although sometime necessary, are drying to the strands. The problem with non-soluble silicones is the fact that they seal the hair shaft completely, allowing no moisture to penetrate the hair shaft until you wash out the silicone. As an alternative to clarifying shampoos, you can use apple cider vinegar rinse to remove mild product build up.

Some non-soluble silicones that are typically found in hair products include:

  • Dimethicone
  • Cyclomethicone
  • Amodimethicone
  • Pheryl Trimethicone
  • Ceteraryl Methicone
  • Dimethiconol
  • Stearyl Dimethicone
  • Ingredients ending with “-cone”
  • Amodimethicone (non-soluble when Trideceth-12 and Cetrimonium Chloride are absent)

Water Soluble Silicones

The name is the give-away – a water-soluble silicone is the one that it is able to dissolve in water. It is a silicone that is easy to wash out of the hair using mild-shampoos or conditioner-only techniques and which does not leave a heavy buildup. For a time cyclomethicone was claimed to be water soluble, but in fact its solubility is at the lower end of solubility spectrum: 20mg/L. So if your conditioner / mask contains cyclomethicone, you would need to follow a clarifying routine to remove product build up.

Examples of water-soluble silicones are:

  • Dimethicone Copolyol
  • Lauryl Methicone Copolyol
  • Any silicone with PEG as a prefix

How to remove silicones from your hair?

While not all silicones are “evil”, over time without appropriate clarifying routine, it can lead to product build up, breakage and lifeless looking strands. While there is some evidence that apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinse can help remove non-heavy product build up from silicones, the best way to tackle it is to use gentle silicone-free clarifying shampoo. Use it only a few times a month – vary depending on heaviness of your silicone-product usage.

Harsh surfactants you should avoid:

  • sodium laureth, myreth, lauryl sulfate
  • sodium coco sulfate
  • ammonium lauryl and laureth sulfate

Some of the gentler cleansing surfactants that you can use to get rid of product build up. are:

  • sodium cocyl isethionate
  • cocamidopropyl betaine
  • sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
  • sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate

Natural alternatives

To repair damage resulting from silicone-based products and nourish the hair shaft, consider using suitable natural oils, instead of conditioners and masks that contain silicones.

Want more customised advice? Take our quiz to find out which natural oil works best with your hair type.

To “nip it in the bud” – attempt to eliminate, or at least minimise products in your hair care routine that contain silicones. While silicone-based are a widely available quick fix to protect your hair against heat-damage, minimising regular use of high heat styling altogether is absolutely the way to go. For curly hair, following Curly Girl Method, which leads you onto slowly abandoning shampoo, heat styling and embraces the bouncy nature of your curl can be a useful, long-term solution.

If you want to step off the silicone ladder altogether, first step is clarifying your hair from the product build up using apple cider rinses and then substituting your silicone-based heat protectants with 100% shea butter – a natural oil is known to lock in the moisture and protect your hair against heat almost on par with silicone-based products. Shea butter works for blow-drying that uses low to medium-heat. If using a curling iron or hair-strenghtener water soluble serums is still the most effective way to protect your hair without weighing it down. As you would need to use a clarifying shampoo to remove the build up, ultimately there is nothing better for your hair than to just Leave. It. Alone. Consider using heat-styling tools no more than once to twice a month (!) and gradually train your hair to grow out to its natural silky beauty.

On a final note, that if you dye your hair and use a clarifying shampoo regularly to remove product build up, the sulfates in your clarifying shampoo remove the pigment in the hair shaft, thus making the colour fade faster. This means that you might have to visit a colourist more often and therefore subject your hair shaft to more damage that can lead to hair thinning and brittleness.

Want to learn more about chemistry of your hair health and how to restore its natural beauty? Check out our article about death of a hair follicle HERE >

Who we are:

The Hair Fuel is an all-natural hair growth mask created by Laura Sagen, who embarked on her journey of hair regrowth as she lost a third of her hair after a horrific visit to a hairdresser as well as suffering from a life-long condition of PCOS (polycystic ovary syndrome) associated with androgenic hair thinning. Started off as tinkering in the kitchen, she developed the formulation rooted in science of scalp blood flow which she has used for years, before a light bulb moment to offer it to other people. This is what has become The Hair Fuel growth mask. 

We work closely with our lab and manufacturers to ensure the highest quality product. But we know that a product alone is never enough – so we hold your hand throughout your own, unique hair growth journey. Our flagship product – The Hair Fuel mask – coupled with our advice, digital tools and on-going web / chat support are there to help you grow the best hair you can. It’s a big claim – but we’re unafraid to make it. Check out our starter bundles >>


  • Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Crosspolymers as Used in Cosmetics (1)
  • Silicones in Cosmetics (2)
  • Rheological characterization of polysaccharide–surfactant matrices for cosmetic O/W emulsions (3)
  • Emulsion stability of cosmetic creams based on water-in-oil high internal phase emulsions (4)
  • Biology of hair care (5)


  • 1. Is silicone really bad for your hair?

    Some silicones can cause product build up in your hair strands. This product build-up forms an almost plastic-like film around your strands thus suffocating them and preventing them from absorbing nutrients and moisture. This results in hair brittleness and breakage.

  • 2. Are silicone products good for your hair?

    Silicone products can create a visually pleasing effect on your hair and make your hair smooth to touch: but silicones don’t nurture and otherwise support your hair health. In fact that smoothness can mean that you’re covering your hair in effectively a plastic-like film which can suffocate your hair. Some silicones, especially non-water soluble ones, can worsen your hair health.

  • 3. What silicones to avoid in hair products?

    Avoid non-water soluble silicones in your hair products: Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Amodimethicone, Pheryl Trimethicone, Ceteraryl Methicone, Dimethiconol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Amodimethicone (non-soluble when Trideceth-12 and Cetrimonium Chloride are absent).

  • 4. What are silicones in hair products called?

    It depends on the silicones, but in your hair products look out for ingredients with the ending “-cone” in them which indicates a silicone. Most popular examples are Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone and Amodimethicone – those are also most harmful for your hair as they are not dissolved in water and cause product build up leading to hair brittleness and breakage.


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15 thoughts on “Silicones in hair care – all you need to know”

  1. The term is “nip it in the bud” not “butt”… nip it in the bud refers to plant growing… Like the budding of a flower or weed…. to keep a plant from growing, you “nip” or cut off the “bud” or the beginning of the plant growing… this stops the plant from growing.

      • Hey Lina – sorry for delay in getting back to you. Maybe it helps to take a step and think about what deep conditioning is for and how it’s done. Deep conditioning involves the application of a thick and restorative formula to your hair, using heat to encourage the penetration of the formula into your strands. It aims to repair dry, damaged hair by rebuilding the its molecular layer and replenishing moisture.

        So – when it comes to restoration of molecular layers, Olaplex is the only product out there that temporarily restores the disulphide bonds in your strands. But unfortunately once the hair is damaged – the damage is permanent. Much like when you break your nail (which also consists of keratine).
        Replenishing hair moisture can be done with natural oils: make sure you heat up your hair before application – to ensure the hair cuticles are opened up for maximum penetration and absorption!

  2. Excellent article! I do have a question though… do silicones in shampoos and conditioners prevent water and other beneficial ingredients from absorbing or being effective? So many products contain silicones in the top half of the ingredients list and I wonder if the good stuff like glycerin, extracts, panthenol and absorbant oils are even able to do their jobs effectively. Thoughts?

    • The non-soluble types – yes. Water-solubles – less so. Also bear in mind that silicones would stay on your hair strands for a while, unless you followed by a clarifying shampoo – so even though you might have switched to a natural product, you might still need to clarify your hair from the residual silicones. And side note – things like heat-protectants and hair sprays often contain silicones – so those also need to be minded (and clarified), too.

  3. Love this article! Very informative. However, I do have a question. “Cyclomethicone” is under both the non-soluble and water soluble sections. Could you clarify which it is? Thanks!

    • Hi Kelly! Yes, for some time cyclomethicone was considered as a water-soluble silicone, however its water solubility is at the lower end of moderate solubility range – 20mg / L. Low solubility starts from 10mg/L and below, and Moderate lies between 10mg-1000mg/L, High solubility is from 1000mg/L upwards.

        • hey Zeina! Sorry it took us a while to get back to you – silicones clog the cuticles of hair strands, but research didn’t confirm that they clog the hair pores (good news!). Having said that, because silicones create a thin film on the scalp, it can trap bacteria, sebum, dead skin and other impurities which can lead to bad cases of acne on scalp. Something to bear in mind!

  4. I keep reading articles about looking for water soluble silicones such as dimethicone copolyol, Lauryl Methicone Copolyol, etc, but no article ever mentions any hair serums or glosses that use these silicones. I’ve searched everywhere for a water-soluble hair serum/gloss but I don’t think it exists…. Can you please name a few hair serums (finishing products for shine) that use ONLY water soluble silicones? Thanks!

    • Hey Dee – sorry for late response! Absolutely, silicones lurk around everywhere. Sounds like you’re already on the right track trying to find the silicone-free solutions! Your best bet might be healthfood shops (e.g. Holland & Barrett, Whole Foods and the like). These normally have a section for natural / organic cosmetics. The quality will differ, once you make a switch – so it’s the matter of trial & error. And also, it helps to think about long term changes you can do to add natural gloss to your hair strands: think hair oiling, supplements, reduction of heat styling – to name a few 🙂

  5. This article was very helpful! I’m on my silicone-free journey as of now and I have come across something that concerns me. I’ve seen that sometimes natural oils will also build up like silicones and will need to be clarified with sulfates. Is this true? And if so, how can I prevent this or work my way around it?

    • Hi Larissa! Thanks for your question. Natural oil (sebum – which is oil produced by your own scalp) can be built up on scalp, yes – which is why you need to massage and wash your scalp properly with a shampoo. If you mean the natural oils that you add to your hair oiling routine – those are different from silicones, as the cell membranes of lipid molecules of natural oils are easily penetrated and dissolved by most shampoos (even the gentler types). It is not the case with silicones – which is why to remove silicone build up you need clarifying shampoos (those with harsher sulphates). Hope that helps? If you have more questions pop up an email to


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